15 September 2008 - The Sunday Telegraph - Martin Buckley
Why Calvi?
I’ve owned a house in north Corsica since 2003 and I go there several times a year. I’m always stirred by the sight of the town from the deck of an approaching ferry – the lofty citadel with its year-round backdrop of snowy mountains is one of the loveliest sights I know.
The locals claim Calvi as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, and his house can still be seen – at least, its ruins can: Nelson reduced it to rubble when he bombarded the French garrison in 1794 (he paid by losing the sight in his right eye in a return of fire). Calvi is a magnet for the yacht-owning super-rich, who sail from Nice or Cannes. In the lush Balangne, unspoilt mountain villages produce superb wine, cheese, olive oil and wild boar sausage.
What do you miss most when you're away?
The light; and Calvi’s great sabre of sand, five miles in length, with its inspiring view of the citadel. Apart from in the high season, you have the beach practically to yourself.
What's the first thing you do on arrival?
I go the newsagent at the top of boulevard Wilson and buy two newspapers, an English one and the local, Corse Matin. I read them at a table outside the café next door, the Rex. It’s a local joint with a real feel of traditional Corsica.
Where's the best place to stay?
La Villa (0033 495 651010; www.hotel-lavilla.com; doubles from £365) is the classy four-star above the town. In central Calvi, the Saint-Christophe is short on charisma but has an unbeatable seaside location (650574; www.saintchristophecalvi.com; from £140). Rent an apartment in the citadel, via Corsican Places (www.corsica.co.uk) or Directcorsica.com, or book an apartment for four at around £500 per week per person, including flights.
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
Follow signs inside the citadel to the nightclub Chez Tao (650073; www.cheztao.com), created by a Russian aristocrat and a ballet dancer in 1928, first made Calvi chic, and it’s still popular with the French in-crowd. Break out your most stylish linens, and try not to flinch when they hand you the drinks bill.
Where is your favourite place for lunch?
For seafood I recommend the Bout du Monde (565 1541). And the Santa Maria, on the square opposite the Baroque pink marzipan church of the same name, is a cheerful and affordable bistro.
And for dinner?
You’ll need a car or taxi, as it’s a little way from Calvi: La Casa Musicale in Pigna (no street address – you can’t miss it; 561 7731). Gorgeous views.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
To Ile Rousse on the bone-rattling miniature train; but Calvi also sits on the edge of a UNESCO Marine World Heritage Site, Scandola, that’s only accessible by boat: mottled-pink volcanic rocks, dolphins and seals. The glass-bottomed boats are not especially stable, so if you’re susceptible to sea-sickness, don’t go on days of heavy swell.
What would you tell them to avoid?
Dining at any of the preening cafés on the Quai Landry – high prices do not guarantee high quality.
Public transport or taxi?
Walk.
Handbag or moneybelt?
Corsican friends tell me darkly that the islanders have their own way of dealing with petty crime. For visitors, the island feels extraordinarily safe and secure.
What should I take home?
I have become addicted to the very high-quality local muscat as an apéritif. The music boxes handmade on the Strada di l’Artigiani in Pigna make lovely presents for families.
And if I've only time for one shop?
Annie Traiteur, 5 rue Clemenceau, is a terrific delicatessen specialising in Corsican produce.
Martin Buckley has a home on Corsica. His new travel book is An Indian Odyssey (Hutchinson £18.99)
View this article online » 