29 November 2008 - The Sun - Gary Payne
THERE was teeming rain as we landed at Gambia’s Banjul airport and I wondered if the airline had made some terrible mistake.
Africa is supposed to be hot and sunny, right? Not damp and overcast.
If I’d wanted this kind of weather, I’d have stayed put in Blighty!
Thankfully, it turned out to be a false alarm.
It was the final week of October and the last day of the rainy season.
And all that greeted us for the rest of our stay was scorching hot sunshine and pure relaxation.
Welcome to The Gambia, one of Africa’s smallest countries on the west coast, roughly on the same latitude as The Bahamas. Less than six hours from the UK and in the same time zone, the former British colony offers a cheap winter sun destination.
Yes, Gambia is still a third-world country and during your stay you’ll no doubt bump into the odd “bumster” — con man — or two. But as a holiday destination The Gambia is safe and has much to offer besides sunshine.
The country has a variety of accommodation from budget backpacker stops to superb five-star hotels with unspoilt beaches.
OK, so the nightlife doesn’t compare to the Canaries and shops, banks and other attractions are a bit thin on the ground to say the least. But when you’re on GMT — that’s Gambian Maybe Time — who cares? The food is great (the ladyfish is to die for) and the locals (who all speak English) are genuinely friendly.
Although most people prefer to spend their days simply relaxing in the sun, there are tons of other things to see and do.
We spent the first three days of our trip at the four-star Kombo Beach Hotel in Kotu — a small up-and-coming area on the coast, ideal for families as well as couples.
Our days were spent mostly lounging by the huge pool or paddling in the sea, drinking the local Jul Brew beer which costs just 50 dalasi — or about £1.20 a bottle.
But for those looking to get out of the hotel complex, The Gambia Experience offers a variety of trips, from exploring the countryside in a 4x4 to cruising down the River Gambia on a traditional pirogue.
One of the most fascinating trips is the Roots tour, named after Alex Haley’s Pulitzer Prize-winning novel, in which the writer traces his family tree.
The excursion combines a relaxed day’s cruise on the river, with poignant reminders of the slave trade at the fortress on James Island, where hundreds of thousands of captives lay shackled before export.
Banjul’s Albert Market is just a short taxi ride away. There you can hone your haggling skills at the many craft stalls.
And if you want to go further afield, you can even take a boat trip to neighbouring Senegal.
But the highlight of our trip was mixing our beach-front stay with four nights at the luxury Mandina Lodges, set on its own river tributary in the heart of the Makasutu Cultural Forest.
Saved from deforestation by Englishmen James English and Lawrence Williams in 1992, the 1,000-acre conservation area enables visitors to combine the peace and calm of nature with an exclusive eco-hideaway.
The retreat was originally intended as a backpackers’ lodge but now boasts solar-powered accommodation, four poster beds and outdoor showers, while all the staff come from the surrounding villages.
Yet from around £120 a night half-board, Makasutu is not out of most people’s price range.
Tailored towards adults only, there are just eight lodges — four floating on the river anchored by wooden walkways, one stilted and three in the jungle.
You even get your own canoe and guide to explore the surrounding mangroves.
Relaxation is the order of the day — whether it’s taking a dip in the pool (claimed to be the biggest in The Gambia) or walking through the forest to spot birds and the local baboons, who roam quite happily through the trees.
Mozzies and other insects aren’t a big issue here but take plenty of Jungle Formula and remember your malaria tablets, just in case.
Days can be spent exploring the villages and schools, and no trip to Africa would be complete without visiting a traditional witch doctor. At night, you dine under the stars.
They call The Gambia the smiling coast. And it’s not hard to see why.
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