11 December 2008 - Nottingham Evening Post - Delia Monk
STANDING in the middle of a circle, I have about 100 pairs of wide brown eyes curiously watching me. Waiting for me to dance. As they start singing and clapping, I desperately try to remember the moves of the elegant eight-year-old, who has just shown me what to do, and I attempt to copy her.
I'm not sure if I've got it right but the teachers and children at this Gambian primary school are now smiling and nodding as I flap around imitating a bird learning how to fly.
The Gambians are warm and welcoming people and a visit to Campama Lower Basic in Banjul proved the point – as soon as we pulled up at the gates we were greeted by swarms of children who dragged us into their playground games.
Travelling to The Gambia – one of Africa's smallest countries on the West Coast – with the Gambia Experience took us off the beaten track.
In a country that has perfect weather almost all year round, it would be tempting to stay on the beach. But dragging yourself away is worth it.
One evening we took a trip to Makasutu, a beautiful resort hidden in jungle on the edge of the river. We enjoyed a lazy trip down the River Gambia in traditional wooden canoes.
Lazy, that is, until we realised the tide had gone out too far and we were beached.
There are worse places to be stuck, I thought, looking around the Mangrove-lined water, indulging in a bit of bird-spotting.
(There are many birds in The Gambia and you don't need to be an expert to appreciate their bright feathers and unusual tunes.)
We tried to push the boat back into deeper water, to the puzzlement of bathing locals.
"There's a turtle", cried our tour guide Muctarr Yankuba (known as Mucki), pointing to something by my left foot.
We all squealed with delight and bent down for a closer look... only to realise it was a crab, which led to more squeals and splashing.
Eventually we made it to the other side of the Makusutu resort, where we spent the rest of the evening and later enjoyed some traditional dancing.
Mucki, who works for West African Tours, joined us for dinner and let us quiz him about The Gambian way of life.
It is known as the Smiling Coast for a reason – the Gambians probably have the biggest and best smiles I have ever seen and they have a lot to smile about.
Even though 70% of the population do not have electricity and most people don't have a car, The Gambia is a plentiful country.
Big families live together, looking after each other, and Mucki tells us with a cheeky grin that there is no credit crunch here – most people don't have bank accounts and borrowing just isn't a possibility.
Earlier that day he had pointed at a donkey and cart. "The Gambian BMW", he said.I think he could be on to something.
A trip to the market is a must – smoked fish is sold cheek by jowl with wooden masks, materials and fabric in every colour of the rainbow.
We took a hotel tour guide with us, who for a few pounds navigated us through the maze of stalls and helped us haggle over bargains.
There are plenty of eating options in The Gambia – the fish is some of the best I have ever tasted, and we begged chefs for recipes on a daily basis!
It is an ideal and affordable winter getaway – it is only about a six-hour flight from East Midland and there is no time difference.
GMT stands for Gambia Maybe Time. Life is at a slower pace and a watch is one thing you can leave at home.
The Gambia travel facts
DELIA travelled to The Gambia with specialist tour operator The Gambia Experience and stayed at the four grade Corinthia Atlantic Hotel, which is ten minutes from the centre of Banjul.
Prices are from £399 per person based on seven nights bed and breakfast, departing January 23 and 30, inclusive of flights from East Midlands.
There is a wide selection of hotels with The Gambia Experience (www.gambia.co.uk) and it is also possible to stay in lodges at Makasutu Forest.
The Bradt Travel Guide The Gambia is £13.99 and available at www.bradtguides.com
Contact The Gambia Experience on 0845 330 2087 or go to www.gambia.co.uk/travel .
