05 September 2009 - Eastern Daily Press Saturday Magazine - Derek James
You have to search for the sign on Gambia's version of the M25 it is so discreet - just a little one which points you in the direction of Coco Ocean. Is this the best hotel on the west coast of Africa? Derek James checks in to find out.
In recent years posh hotels, calling themselves resorts with the obligatory spa have been popping up all over the world. The Far East and of course Dubai, the biggest building site in the world, are top of the list.
You could be forgiven for thinking there is a competition between the owners to make them as flashy and outrageous as possible in a desperate bid to get a higher star rating …especially in the Middle East.
Weird and wacky designs reaching into the sky are almost worshipped and are seen as a glorious reason to push up the prices. Many of these hotels, especially those belonging to the big chains, are so “up front” they have lost their appeal and charm.
Once you are booked in you could be anywhere in the world and it often makes you wonder whether or not it is worth visiting in the first place.
But Coco Ocean facing the Atlantic on the west coast of Africa is different, so very different.
There is nothing brash about this hotel. It has real style and an intimacy, which lifts tourism in The Gambia to a new level.
This engaging little country, a former British colony surrounded by big brother Senegal, has been welcoming visitors for many years.
The first tourists came from Scandinavia but then us Brits realised, while we were shivering between November and April, the sun was shining non-stop, well almost, in Gambia.
Less than six hours’ flying time away and with no time difference or language problems and prices cheap when compared with the Caribbean, this was the ideal winter hot-spot.
But this was Africa. You either loved it or hated it. Every time you ventured outside of the hotel, you were embarking on an adventure… the locals made sure of that.
The hotels were cheap and cheerful. This was easy Africa. Then smaller, more intimate and upmarket hotels started to open up expanding the market and trying to tempt visitors all the year round. Any why not? Yes it rains in the summer months but the sun is rarely hidden for very long and while Europe and beaches and resorts are packed, you can walk for mile on The Gambia’s golden sands without seeing a soul.
At the end of last year, the team behind Coconut Residence, one of the best of the small hotels, went one step further and opened up what is without doubt the best hotel in the country… Coco Ocean.
From the outside this stylish low-rise development with its arches and domes and tucked away suites and penthouses is a development like no other.
Step inside and the holiday begins. The atmosphere is as cool as the air conditioning. Some top class hotels can be intimidating but Coco Ocean is very special. The friendly and easygoing staff go out of their way to make sure you have a perfect say.
Nothing is too much trouble.
The rooms offer every facility you need, some come with their own swimming pool. Other villas have large outdoor seating areas. There is also a central tiered swimming pool for all guests and plenty of room for privacy in the large landscaped areas with swaying palms and baobab trees, which attract exotic birds.
Breakfast – the menu has to be seen to be believed – is served in the Courtyard and restaurants are very special. It is certainly worth considering paying the £25 a night supplement for half-board.
The jewel in the Coco Ocean crown is the spa, the first of its kind in the country, housed in a Moorish-style villa offering a complete range of treatments by specialist therapist from around the world. A visit can be as energetic or as relaxing as you wish. Another plus for this hotel is the location. It really does offer the best of both worlds. Although it stands on its own facing the beach at Bijilo, a 20 minute stroll takes you to Kololi and the beating heart of Gambian nightlife at what has become known as the Senegambia Strip.
It’s Las Vegas – African style – with the odd casino dotted among the bars, restaurants, and night clubs and craft markets. Keep your cool, and your sense of humour when entering, and you will have a great time.
If you are visiting The Gambia then you must get out and about and make the effort to explore this country and all it has to offer.
Turn your back on the coastal areas and head inland for a real adventure. There are so many excursions to choose from but a trip up the mighty River Gambia is a must.
A holiday to The Gambia can be life-changing. The chances are some of your travelling companions will be “repeaters”, people who have made good friends in the country, got involved with various charity projects, or even bought property.
Yes, the Coco Ocean is expensive when compared to other hotels in The Gambia but it is excellent value when you look at prices in similar hotels in other parts of the world.
I spoke to a well travelled businessman from Sierra Leone on my visit and asked him if he knew of a better hotel on the west coast of Africa where he had worked for 30 years.
“No,” he said as we sat in the garden surrounded by swaying palms and listening to the Atlantic rollers, “this is a special place and I shall be coming back next month, bringing my wife and children with me.”
Lucky man.
Need to know
Tour company and flight operator The Gambia Experience has been the main link between Britain and The Gambia for more than 21 years.You can choose from basic, good value, two-star hotels to exclusive and luxurious resorts such as Coco Ocean.
Prices at Coco Ocean start from £975 per person this winter (December 15 departure) based on seven nights, bed and breakfast in a junior suite. The price includes return Gatwick to Banjul flights, hotel transfers, inflight meals and taxes.
The company currently has an early booking offer of a free spa treatment for bookings made before the end of September. The offer is valid for bookings for departures between January 5 and February 9 on Tuesdays from Gatwick.
Visit www.gambia.co.uk or for reservations telephone 0845 330 2087.
National Express operates up to seven coaches a day from Norwich (UEA and Surrey Street) to Gatwick and back, day and night. They also pick up at Thickthorn park and ride, Wymondham, Attleborough, Thetford and Mildenhall. Coaches also stop at Stansted and Heathrow.
For details and prices visit www.nationalexpress.com or telephone 08717 818181.
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