05 February 2011 - East Anglia Suffolk Life Magazine - Katie McGonagle
Beautiful beaches, glorious sunshine, foods to suit every taste and a bit of culture thrown in to boot –what’s not to like about the Gambia?
More and more tourists are flocking to this hidden gem of Africa every year seeking a bit of winter sunshine at a price that won’t break the bank balance. And whether it’s the lure of a jungle adventure or a crash course in African culture – or simply lying on the beach with a cocktail and a good book – the country has everything you could ask for.
We flew into Banjul, the capital and site of the only international airport, and in no time at all, we were on a white sand beach in Kotu, in the northern tip of the country.
The Gambia’s popularity has skyrocketed with British holiday-makers in recent years and it’s not hard to see why. English is spoken everywhere – a leftover of its colonial history – and it is in the same timezone as the UK which, with its short sixhour flight, means jet lag isn’t an issue.
And as tourism grows in popularity, so too does the number of activities on offer. We particularly enjoyed a four wheel drive adventure, stopping in some of the villages to see palm wine tappers and cashew nut pickers at work, and a drive through the African bush to see monkeys, baboons and numerous species of brightly-coloured birds. These tours can be a bit hair-raising – the Gambia has only two main roads, with the rest of the trip taking place on bumpy dirt tracks which certainly weren’t for the fainthearted – but well worth it to get out of the tourist district and see a bit more of the real country.
There are some highlights, which simply can’t be missed. We got the chance to visit a Gambian school and speak to some of the children, and they even treated us to a performance of traditional African songs. And a visit to fishing village Tanji in the Western Division gave us an incredible insight into the lives of the locals, as we saw fish caught in long boats and smoked it right there on the beach.
Be prepared though – there is real poverty in some parts of the country, with about 70 per cent of the population living in mud brick houses roofed with elephant grass.
The disparity between rich and poor can be a bit of a shock to the system. The richest area, Kotu, is almost exclusively made up of ex-pat foreigners, many of whom also own the majority of businesses in the country, but it is worth remembering that each hotel worker or waiter is supporting up to 30 of his relations at home, so tourism is a really valuable commodity to the country.
For those keen to sample a bit of local life, some of the best activities include traditional drumming, a day-long Gambian cookery course and, for art lovers, a trip to the tiny village of Kubuneh.
The village is home to a fantastic collection of street art by people from all over the world as well as local Gambians, after the English owners of nearby guest house Mandina Lodges set up the first of an annual festival of street art in October.
I found walking around buildings covered in paintings of penguins drinking cocktails or birds lined up on a wire made for a slightly surreal experience, but one that shows off the wealth and diversity of cultural delights on offer and was certainly not what I expected from a tiny rural village.
The Mandina Lodges are an interesting option, comprising a series of eight large huts held up on stilts in the water. They might not be the most luxurious places to stay, but they guarantee a chance to get away from it all and be at one with nature. The forest that surrounds them, called Makasutu, was abandoned by locals a long time ago as it was believed to have been infested by demons following a tribal war.
But it now offers a unique opportunity for wildlife watching along the river, or simply relaxing in its calm and peaceful surroundings.
Hotel accommodation varies widely in both standards and prices, from the relatively basic such as Palma Rima to the ultimate luxury of spa hotel Coco Ocean and the Sheraton, the first international chain to open a hotel in the Gambia.
There is a lot of choice in between, however, with mid-range hotels such as Kombo Beach and exclusive guest houses such as Ngala Lodge and Hibiscus House, many of which are very focused on environmental sustainability.
But one of the biggest things that struck me and most visitors to the Gambia is the friendly and welcoming attitude of the locals, as waiters and hotel workers simply cannot do enough for their guests to ensure you have a pleasant stay.
Even outside the hotel district, where tourists are a rather rarer sight, the reaction was universally positive with residents happy to welcome us into their homes at a moment’s notice.
Such was the warm welcome that my arm even got tired from waving back at all the children and adults who greeted us as we passed by in our four wheel drive.
Of course for many visitors, the main attraction will be the region’s unspoilt and uncrowded beaches, offering a welcome chance to escape the British winter and relax instead under the hot African sun.
Most hotels boast their own beach while all have their own pools to allow guests a chance to cool down after a day in the sun. And with temperatures averaging 32C during the winter months and eight to ten hours of sunshine a day, it is no surprise that came as a welcome relief to many of us. Night-life is also developing quickly in the hotel district with exciting hotspots such as “The Strip” in Kololi, the liveliest part of the tourist area, offering a fantastic range of family-friendly restaurants and a mix of bars and clubs.
Although 90 per cent of Gambians are Muslim, drinking is widely accepted in tourist areas, and the country even has its own brewery making the refreshing local beer, Jul Brew.
Most night spots are easily accessible via the taxi ranks outside the hotels, although it is worth agreeing a price beforehand to avoid any nasty shocks at the end of a good night.
All in all, the Gambia is the perfect place to start for anyone new to Africa but keen to try something different this winter. With its fantastic range of activities, wonderful weather and welcoming staff, it has truly earned its reputation as “The smiling coast of Africa”.
Katie McGonagle visited as a guest of The Gambia Experience, which offers a range of deals starting at £399 for seven nights. Visit www.gambia.co.uk for more information.
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